Now think of a farm on a terraced hillside, of an ancient fortress and citadel of terracotta tiled roofs and gold finials glinting in sunshine. Below is a fertile valley, a river meandering through it. The scene is given vast scale by the surrounding great green hills – yet actually merely foothills – rising in the north to the snows of The Langtang Himal.
That farm, fortress and citadel are Nuwakot: just a 5km detour, a mid-way gem …and for how much longer to be barely mentioned by guidebooks?
Nuwakot Bazaar is a centre-piece of the Nepalese story; of the shaping of far-flung tribes and of trans-Himalayan races into a unified kingdom.
An imposing manor house and two charming cottages form a courtyard, while The Farm itself is a delight of quiet corners and verdant niches with terraces of abundant, colourful, organic crops. Not that it was always so; for with once prosperous families headed to Kathmandu for education and a plastic existence, rot, collapse and subsidence had long been the reality.
The ways and moods of the working farm permeate and the new freshness of the interiors takes nothing from their rustic ambiance. There are a total of 11 bedrooms, a dozen or so guests is typical and families thrive
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